Tampoori Fabric School
How much fabric do you actually need?
The honest guide. Yardage figures for 44-inch cotton and 55-inch rayon, covering womenswear, menswear, and home, with notes from the studio.
Cotton
44 inches wide
Available in 3-yard and 4-yard pieces. We do not cut fabric. If you need something in between, say 3.5 yards, WhatsApp us. We sometimes have in-between pieces from the studio available as 3+ yard cuts.
Rayon
55 inches wide · 4.5 yards
Sold as one complete piece only. 55 inches wide and 4.5 yards long. No variations, no cutting. The wider width and generous length means most garments work comfortably within this single piece. Rayon is strictly for clothing.
Before you buy
Three things your tailor knows for a fact
These three rules affect every yardage estimate in this guide. Understanding them will save you from buying too little, and from questioning why your tailor needs more than you expected.
Rule 01
The Grainline Rule
Your tailor always cuts with the grain, the direction of the fabric's threads. Cutting off-grain causes garments to twist and hang poorly over time. This means pattern pieces cannot be rotated arbitrarily to save space. They must align with the lengthwise grain, which directly affects how many pieces fit on the bolt.
This is why your tailor sometimes needs more fabric than you expect. The pieces cannot always be nested the most efficient way.
Rule 02
The One-Way Print Rule
Tampoori fabrics are hand-dyed. Some patterns have a direction, meaning motifs that should always face upward, like a repeated geometric shape or a directional tie-dye. If your fabric is one-way, your tailor cannot flip pattern pieces upside down to nest them efficiently. This can add 0.5 to 1 yard to your estimate.
Always show your tailor the print before buying and ask: is this directional? If in doubt, buy the higher estimate.
Rule 03
The Shrinkage Rule
100% cotton can shrink, typically 5 to 10% on the first wash. A cautious tailor builds in shrinkage allowance, especially for fitted garments. If you are cutting it close on yardage, add a little extra for peace of mind. Pre-washing your fabric before cutting removes most shrinkage risk.
If your tailor asks you to pre-wash the fabric, always do it before they cut. Never after.
Womenswear · 44-inch cotton
Cotton: womenswear
Figures are general estimates. Confirm with your tailor before buying. Every tailor cuts differently, every pattern is different, and directional prints may add 0.5 to 1 yard.
| Garment | Yards needed | What to buy | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wrap skirt (midi or maxi) | 1.5 to 2 | 3-yard piece | Use the leftover for a matching top |
| Pencil skirt + top | 2.5 to 3.5 | 3-yard piece | 3 yards for sleeveless or cropped top. Long sleeves need 3.5 yards. |
| Wrap blouse or relaxed top (sleeveless or short sleeve) | 1.5 to 2 | 3-yard piece | Leftover pairs with a skirt or trousers from the same piece |
| Wrap blouse or relaxed top (long sleeves) | 2 to 2.5 | 3-yard piece | Long sleeves must run lengthwise and add to overall yardage |
| Midi dress (straight or fitted, sleeveless) | 3 | Ask for a 3+ piece | With sleeves, add 0.5 yards. Ask for a 3+ piece. |
| Midi dress (A-line or circle skirt) | 4 | 4-yard piece | Bias cut needs the full 4 yards. Non-negotiable. |
| Maxi dress (straight, sleeveless) | 4 | 4-yard piece or ask for 4+ | With sleeves, gathering, or lining: 4.5 yards |
| Maxi dress (flared or full skirt) | 5 | Ask for a 4+ piece | Always discuss with your tailor before buying |
| Kaba and slit | 4.5 to 5 | Ask for a 4+ or 5-yard piece | Two garments on different grainlines. Cannot be nested efficiently. |
| Blouse and skirt set (co-ord) | 3.5 to 4 | Ask for 3+ or buy 4-yard piece | Two pieces need more layout room. Grainlines must work for both. |
| Kaftan (standard, with or without sleeves) | 3 to 3.5 | Ask for a 3+ piece | Without sleeves: 3 yards. With sleeves: 3.5 yards. |
| Kaftan (butterfly style) | 4 | 4-yard piece | Broader shoulders or longer arms may need 4.5 yards |
menswear · 44-inch cotton
Cotton: menswear
44-inch fabric is narrower than most menswear patterns assume. Confirm with your tailor and always buy the higher estimate for larger builds or generous cuts.
| Garment | Yards needed | What to buy | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shorts and shirt set | 3 to 3.5 | 3-yard piece or ask for 3+ | Shorts are short. Gives room to cut both pieces with careful layout. |
| Shirt only (short sleeve, loose fit) | 2.5 | Ask for a 2+ piece | Chest 40 to 42 standard. Shorter sleeves allow body and sleeves within same length. |
| Shirt only (long sleeve, loose fit) | 3 | 3-yard piece | Long sleeves must run lengthwise. Taller frame or generous cut: 3.5 yards. |
| Trousers only (standard fit) | 2 | Ask for a 2+ piece | Both legs cut side by side within the width. Waist 38+: move to 2.5 yards. |
| Trousers only (relaxed or wider leg) | 2.5 | Ask for a 2+ piece | Wide-leg or palazzo style for men: 3 yards |
| Men's kaftan set (short sleeve shirt + trousers) | 4 | 4-yard piece or ask for 4+ | Loose shirt below the waist plus full trousers. Larger build: 4.5 yards. |
| Men's kaftan set (long sleeve shirt + trousers) | 4.5 to 5 | Ask for a 4+ piece | Long sleeves cannot always be cut sideways at 44 inches. Add the full sleeve length. |
| Traditional agbada | 8 to 10 | Multiple pieces. Ask us. | Never buy less than 8 yards. Very full sleeves need 10. Do not gamble on less. |
Clothing only · 55-inch rayon · 4.5 yards
Rayon: what one piece makes
Rayon comes as one complete piece: 55 inches wide, 4.5 yards long. The wider width means you can often cut pieces side by side that would go end-to-end on cotton. Rayon is slippery and shifts during cutting. Your tailor should pin generously and not try to squeeze more than one major project out of the piece.
Maxi dress (straight or flared)
Room to spare on most sizes. The go-to rayon garment.
Wide-leg trousers and blouse set
Wider fabric helps fit both pieces without compromising grainlines.
Kaftan (standard or butterfly)
4.5 yards is generous for most kaftan styles, including butterfly.
Midi dress (A-line or circle skirt)
Wider width helps significantly with bias cuts and circle skirts.
Co-ord set (top and skirt or trousers)
Usually some leftover fabric for a wrap or accessories.
Men's shorts and shirt (resort style)
55-inch width suits wider men's silhouettes. A fluid, relaxed look.
Traditional agbada
Agbada needs multiple pieces regardless of fabric width. The volume and structure of the garment require more than one 4.5-yard piece.
Structured home furnishings
Rayon's fluid drape means it cannot hold the shape required for cushion covers, curtains, tablecloths, or other structured home pieces. Use cotton for all home projects.
Cotton only · Home and interiors
Cotton: home and interiors
Cotton's rich, saturated dye result looks stunning under home lighting and is durable enough for everyday furnishings. All estimates are for standard sizes. Confirm dimensions with your seamstress or upholsterer before buying.
| Item | Yards needed | What to buy | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cushion cover (standard 50cm) | 0.5 to 0.75 | 3-yard piece makes 4 to 6 covers | Pair with plain fabric backing to save yardage |
| Throw pillow (large, 60cm) | 0.75 to 1 | 3-yard piece makes 3 to 4 | Allow extra for piping or fringe trim |
| Table runner (standard 40x150cm) | 0.5 to 0.75 | 3-yard piece makes 4 runners | Cut across the width for best pattern display |
| Tablecloth (4-seater, 140x180cm) | 2 | 3-yard piece | 44 inches = 112cm, narrower than most table widths. Seaming required. Confirm with your seamstress. |
| Tablecloth (6 to 8-seater, 140x240cm) | 3 | 3-yard piece | Same seaming consideration applies. Add 0.5 yards if your seamstress prefers more overlap. |
| Napkins (set of 4, 45x45cm) | 0.5 | Offcuts from tablecloth project | Hem allowance included. Nothing goes to waste. |
| Placemats (set of 4, 30x45cm) | 0.5 | Offcuts from larger projects | A good use of leftover fabric from any project |
| Curtain panel (standard window, lined) | 3 to 4 | 4-yard piece per panel | Two panels for one window: 6 to 8 yards total. Ask us about multiple pieces. |
| Wall hanging or tapestry | 1 to 2 | 3-yard piece | Batik on cotton is particularly striking as wall art |
| Tote bag (standard market size) | 0.5 to 0.75 | Offcuts from clothing projects | Nothing from Tampoori should go to waste |
01
The set rule
Whenever you are making two pieces from one bolt, add 1 to 1.5 yards to your estimate. Two pieces need twice the layout planning and the grain lines have to work for both.
02
The length rule
For any garment longer than your hip measurement, you will almost certainly need to cut front and back separately down the length of the fabric. This means twice the garment length plus seam allowances and hems.
03
The bias rule
A bias cut or circle skirt uses significantly more fabric because the pattern pieces go diagonally across the cloth. Always buy 4 yards for any bias-cut or circle-skirt dress on 44-inch cotton.
04
The agbada rule
Never buy less than 8 yards for a traditional agbada on 44-inch fabric. If you want very full sleeves, buy 10. This is the figure most buyers and most guides get badly wrong.
05
The tailor rule
Every tailor cuts differently. Show them the fabric width and your pattern before you buy. Ask directly: how many yards do you need? Then come to us with that number.
06
The waste rule
Leftover cotton does not go to waste. A pencil skirt leaves enough for a blouse. A tablecloth leaves enough for napkins. Plan your project with the whole piece in mind.
Still not sure?
Ask us before you buy.
We would rather spend two minutes on WhatsApp helping you get the right amount than have you arrive at your tailor three inches short.